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 COUNTRY Spain
POPULATION 40,398,000
CURRENCY Euro
+34 for Spain, 95 for Malaga
Tourist information
Main city tourist information office:
Pasaje de Chinitas 4, tel: +34 95
221 3445.
902 888 459
For special Virgin Express rates visit the Hertz desk on arrival or call: 902 402 405
This Costa capital has a lot going for it, including more bars per square metre than most other cities in Europe. The swanky main street, Marqués de Larios, is close to all the historic sights, including some of the best tapas bars, and Plaza de la Merced – Picasso’s birthplace. Looming above is the 8th-century Alcazaba (pictured) connected by a long double wall to the Gibralfaro castle with its bougainvillea-draped ramparts. There are great views from here. At Mijas, the Hipodromo racetrack starts its new season in October while Puerto Banús is worth the exorbitant drink prices for a spot of poseur-watching. Back down to earth, Arroyo de la Miel’s Parque de Paloma has carefully manicured grounds, a wonderful lake and plenty of wildlife.
The Costa capital has some superb – and unusual – architecture. Its soaring domed cathedral is an example of the latter, nicknamed La Manquita as it is missing its second bell tower due to lack of funds. It was built on the site of a former mosque and only the fragrant courtyard of orange trees remains. Opposite is the beautiful Palacio Episcopal in the café-flanked Plaza del Obispo. Even if you’re not a Picasso fan, a short stroll away the Museo Picasso, a restored 16th-century palace, is an architectural gem. Roman remains discovered during the archaeological restoration are now on view in the basement. For ancient architecture, check out the nearby Roman theatre where excavations continue. The best way to appreciate Malaga’s sights is to ride one of the hop-on hop-off open-top buses which tour the city. Tickets (valid for 24 hours) include a multilingual audio guide.
On the Costa, Tipi Tapa (Calle Pintor Nogales, Fuengirola, tel: +34 95 219 92 360) is a lively new tapas bar within walking distance of both the beach and town centre. If you are planning some retail therapy at the Myramar shopping centre, pop into Wok Buffet (Avda Parque Fluvial, tel: +34 952 666 030) and increase your waist size with its blow-out buffet. In Málaga, the Pitta Bar (Calle Echegaray 8, tel: +34 952 608 675), close to both the Picasso Museum and the Cathedral, dishes up superb Moroccan cuisine. Near the sophisticated shops on Málaga’s Calle Marqués de Larios is El Chinitas (C/Moreno Monroy 4, tel: +34 95 221 0972), a real dining institution. Try the excellent fish soup, or solomillo al vino de Málaga: fillet steak in Málaga wine sauce.
For unadulterated elegance with classical music and cocktails, check out Puerto Oscura (Calle Molina Lario 5, tel: + 34 95 222 19 00). Round the corner is Málaga institution Bodegas El Pimpi (Calle Granada 62, tel: +34 95 222 89 90) with its warren of cavernous rooms. If cruising by Puerto Banús then join the local glitterati at Sinatra’s Bar (Calle de Ribera) with its frontline position overlooking the gin palaces. Due east in Marbella is the swanky Atrium (Calle Gregorio Marañón 11, tel: +34 95 282 85 89), located in a luxurious residential area a thong’s throw from the palm-flanked promenade.
The Costa del Sol has hundreds of restaurants but avoid those advertising sun-bleached posters of dishes. Among the classier options is Airen (Reserva del Higuerón, Benalmádena Costa, tel: +34 952 56 58 84) owned by the same folk as the Michelin-star-rated Café de Paris in Málaga. Dishes are innovative and stylish. Another special-occasion place is Patrick Bausier (Rotondade la Luna 1, Fuengirola, tel: +34 95 258 5120) dishing up delicious nouvelle-Med cuisine. Don your glad rags and book ahead if you are planning a night out at Babilonia (Ctra de Istán, Marbella, tel: +34 952 82 88 61). Situated within the Coast’s classiest nightclub, Olivia Valère, the menu is suitably lightweight for those heading straight for the dancefloor after dessert.
One of the city’s newest hotels, located metres from the bustling Alameda thoroughfare is Hotel Astoria (Comandante Benítez 5, tel: +34 95 101 43 00; www.hotelastoria-malaga. com; doubles from €80). In Torremolinos, an inexpensive option is Hotel El Pozo (Calle Casablanca 2, tel: +34 95 238 0622; doubles from €55) in the centre of town within walking distance of the beach. Marbella hotels can be pricey but there are good deals often online. Check out Residencia San Cristóbal (Avenida Ramón y Cajal 3, tel: +34 05 277 12 50, doubles from €70), which is on the main street with good-sized rooms. Book a room at the back, or take earplugs for Saturday nights. For a luxurious splurge, you can’t beat the Alanda Club Marbella (Carretera de Cádiz 178, tel: +34 95 282 22 11, €425 double room) set in gorgeous gardens with every conceivable luxury.
Words Mary McLean
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