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Restaurant round-up: Jenny Grainer in the Algarve
Fortaleza da Luz
Praia da Luz – Lagos, tel: +351 (0)282 788 993.
Open for lunch and dinner.
The Fortaleza is a 400-year-old fortress overlooking the sea, west of Lagos. It was purchased from a distinguished Portuguese family in 1972 and turned into the atmospheric restaurant it is today. I opted for a vegetable-packed soup, which was hot, delicious and almost a meal in itself. My partner tried the home-made stew and I couldn’t help but sample some on a warm crunchy bread roll: superb. The dish-of-the-day was a platter of grilled fish, three varieties all cooked on a charcoal grill and served with crispy vegetables and sautéed potatoes. As a lover of fish I enjoyed the experience very much, contrary to my partner, who has an allergy to anything removed from the sea, so he went for the pork cordon bleu – much more to his liking – served with an adventurous salad. We shared an almond pie with and finished a delicious bottle of white wine before coffee. The bill for two came to about €45.
The Quinta da São Bento
Estrada da Foia – Monchique, tel: +351 (0)282 912 43/700. www.quintasaobento.online.pt
Located in Foia, Monchique, this lovely house was the holiday home of the Portuguese royal family. To enjoy the gastronomic delights of this exceptional place it is essential that you book in advance as the food you choose will be prepared especially for you. You will be dining in a room that feels more like a private home rather than a restaurant. The home-made breads – which you can enjoy as a starter – ranged from rough brown, to cornbread and one with small chunks of meat. These were accompanied by a selection of home-preserved olives, sweet pickled carrots, smoked ham and cheeses. The main course we selected was wild boar marinated overnight and deliciously flavoured with herbs, served with sweet potatoes and chestnuts. For dessert I chose a mix of figs and melon, which was incredibly good, my partner opted for ice cream with fresh raspberry sauce. The red Bairrada 1999 perfectly suited the meal. Vegetarians and special diets are always catered for and downstairs is a large banqueting room for coach parties or weddings. Around €60 for two.
Capela das Artes
EN 125, Alcantarilha, tel: +351 (0)968 253 117 or +351 (0)282 320 200. www.capeladasartes.com
The restaurant is part of a restored 15th-century mansion house with art gallery above and newly-built hotel behind the main building. The Portuguese chef has compiled a menu that reflects a very international flavour. I chose tiger prawns with a slightly spicy sauce to start, although the goat’s cheese with tomato salad drizzled with olive oil and freshly ground pepper, looked an excellent alternative. There were several pasta dishes and I gave serious thought to the rack of lamb, but in the end decided a fillet steak with red wine sauce was something I couldn’t resist. Served with tiny roast potatoes and vegetables it was perfect. My partner went for medalions of pork, with a potato crust on a bed of red peppers, and sighed with pleasure. For the adventurous try bacalhao (dried cod fish) it’s the Portuguese national dish and can be prepared in many ways. The fresh fruit salad was very exotic and we took the waiter’s advice and had a medium- dry fruity white wine. Around €70 for two.
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