In what other country can you skate on the ice in the capital’s archipelago, be part of the world’s largest cross-country ski race, visit the Samis – the last remaining indigenous people of Europe – or stay in a hotel completely built of ice? Sweden simply has something for everyone during its winter, whatever your interests.

Sweden is often perceived as a country with long cold winters and lots of snow. It is, despite offering a wide range of seasonal activities, not often considered as a popular winter destination for foreign visitors. It’s true that during the Swedish winter the days are short but the long nights are, in fact, a far cry from the gloomy darkness that most people expect. Throughout the country and especially during the winter holidays (one of the longest holiday periods in Sweden), almost every tree is lit up and every window is decorated with special Christmas lights. Then, of course, there’s the pure white snow itself, which reflects the street lights and brightens the night skies. And while the temperatures might drop to -10ºC or less, you just need to dress up warmly, brave the cold open air and head outdoors to enjoy all that this winter paradise has to offer.

In Gothenburg, Baltesspannarparken by the Great Theatre, becomes a public ice rink as soon as the water has frozen over. On the outskirts of Gothenburg it is possible to go on Iceland pony rides through the snow, should the weather permit of course. Building up to Christmas, the city’s amusement park, Liseberg, offers one of the world’s most idyllic markets. Here you can buy anything that is Swedish and relates to the holidays, sample a julbord (think smörgåsbord with Christmas food – jul is Christmas in Swedish) and warm yourself by an outdoor fire. Filled with 600 Christmas trees and lit up by more than three million sparkling lights, the atmosphere at this market is truly mesmerising and will not be forgotten easily.

Further north in Stockholm several operators organise ice-skating tours on the frozen archipelago, where trails pass by nature reserves and old castles. The season lasts from November to April, with January and February being the best months to put on your ice skates. One of the organisers,  Friluftsfrämjandet (Sweden’s largest outdoor life federation) also arranges full-moon skating trips from January to March. Torches illuminate the route and this magical event ends with a barbecue by a moonlit lake. The open ice around Stockholm is one of the best places in the world for skating as the ice is very smooth and winds are mild.

Having been declared as Europe’s cleanest city, the water in the middle of Stockholm is great for fishing, even during the winter. It was actually a Swede who was the first in the world to start the sport of ice-fishing, which, ten years later has caught on and become very popular. During winter, organisers arrange day trips and ice-fishing safaris in and around the capital. And the chances are just as good of catching a big Northern Pike or a Walleye from the top of the ice during the cold, as in any other season.

Ski heaven
North of Stockholm, are Jämtland and Härjedalen. This region is home to 300 ski slopes, 1,000 kilometres of prepared ski tracks and more than 1,000 kilometres of marked cross-country ski trails. Åre is the most popular resort in the area and is home to Åreskutan, the country’s most famous mountain at a height of 1,420 metres. A ten-minute cable-car journey takes you to less than 200 metres from the top and from here some of Europe’s best ski slopes will take you back down the mountain. Within easy access of both Stockholm and Gothenburg, either by plane or train, Åre is a regular organiser of World Cup races and will be the host of the 2007 Alpine World Ski Championships.

This region also offers ideal terrain for cross-country skiing with several breathtaking scenic routes. You can even participate in the world’s largest cross-country ski race, which will take place in March, 2004. Today, almost 15,000 skiers complete this 90- kilometre course, which runs between Mora and Sälen. To enrol, visit www.vasaloppet.se. Aside from skiing in Jämtland Härjedalen, you can also try ice-climbing, scooter safaris, paragliding, dog sledging and horse riding trails through the snow.

In Njarka Sameläger you will step back in time and leave the otherwise ultra-modern Sweden behind when you enter the world of the Sami (also known as the Lapp), the Nordic’s indigenous people. Today it is estimated that between 70,000 and 100,000 Samis still thrive in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia, with about 17,000 to 20,000 of the population living in Sweden. However, only a small percentage of them still rely on the traditional occupation of reindeer herding. Visitors can gain a unique insight to the livelihoods of these people by visiting them in a Lapp cot – their traditional home – sleeping on a reindeer rug and feeding their reindeers.

Cool as ice
No trip to Sweden during the winter season would be complete without visiting the coolest and probably one of the most innovative hotels in the world: the Ice Hotel. Located 200 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle in Jukkasjärvi, the hotel is rebuilt every year in November and therefore never looks the same twice. The idea began back in 1989 following a very successful exhibition of ice art, during which some participants decided to sleep in reindeer rugs inside the ice hall. Following 12 years of business, it has now grown to a 5,000 metre square hotel built of 30,000 tonnes of snow and 4,000 tonnes of ice. For the faint-hearted who cannot bear the prospect of an icy night’s sleep in the Ice Hotel itself there are cosy cabins surrounding the hotel.

The Ice Hotel also has its own Absolut Icebar, where all drinks are served in the rocks rather than on them! Described as one of the most stunning bars in the world (beautifully sculpted in ice, of course), each drink is served in a glass made of ice, which slowly melts as you sip away. Building on the success of this bar, a second Absolut Ice bar was opened several years ago at the Nordic Sea Hotel at Vasaplan in the middle of Stockholm. What differs is that the second bar is open all year, so even during the hot summer months each guest is provided with a warm fur poncho and mittens to withstand the constant temperature of -5ºC inside the bar.

The Ice theme doesn’t stop here either; there is also an Ice Church (where many weddings have taken place, with brides wearing anything from ski suits to elaborate fur outfits), an Ice Cinema and the Ice Globe Theatre. Other adventures offered by the hotel itself include ice sculpting seminars, snowmobile tours searching for the amazing Northern Lights and an overnight tour to a wilderness camp. But be prepared: lunch is likely to include reindeer steak, a must-eat in these neighbourhoods.

Why not acclimatise to the cold and arrive at the Ice Hotel in style by taking a dogsled ride from the airport in Kiruna through forests and across frozen lakes. The journey between the airport and the hotel takes roughly one and a half hours and the scenery is breathtaking – it will certainly set the romantic mood for your stay in the hotel. These tours can be arranged through the hotel and cost €560 (SEK 5,085) per dogsled Before leaving Jukkasjärvi, don’t forget to visit the Swedish Sauna Academy, where you get to experience a proper Swedish sauna and lie in the outdoor hot tubs while enjoying the fascinating Arctic sky and sunset at dusk.

With so much beauty, peace and tranquillity you will leave Sweden refreshed and rejuvenated, realising it is anything but a dark country.
Anders Lindström

Useful contacts
Liseberg www.liseberg.se/julpaliseberg
Stockholm www.stockholmtown.com
Friluftsfrämjandet +46 (0)8 447 44 40
Åre and Njarka Sameläger www.jamtland.info
Ice Hotel www.icehotel.com