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Thought Amsterdam was a destination for stags on the rampage and cannabis
lovers? Think again. The city’s less salubrious side can often overshadow
its many family- oriented attractions, says Andrea Wren
Tell people that you’re travelling to Amsterdam and the responses you
get can be somewhat clichéd – the nudge, nudge, wink, wink reaction
of those who picture you wandering the red-light district browsing in sex shops,
or the “we know what you’re up to” glances that envisage you
sat in the coffee shops smoking the local specialities. Tell them you’re
travelling to the city with your child, and you can almost see the big question
mark that pops up above their heads. It's written all over their faces: “What
on earth are they going to do?” But, contrary to popular opinion, the city
doesn’t exist only as a stag weekend destination. In fact, it’s bursting
with family-focused diversions.
Be assured, Amsterdam is more than cannabis culture and sex trade; it’s
got history, charm, character – and canals! If you’ve avoided Amsterdam
because you’re afraid of what you might find, it’s time to broaden
your horizons and discover the city’s offerings – apart from the obvious.
Believe me: it is possible to experience the sights and sounds, without exposing
your nearest and dearest to the less salubrious of theenticements (or having too
many difficult questions to answer). Whether you’re arriving with children,
grandparents or the whole clan, fear not, you’ll find your feet here.
Don’t bother with car hire – the city is compact (and parking a nightmare).
Trams are the simplest way to get from A to B, but families can have fun cycling
(a very acceptable mode of transport for the city’s inhabitants). Cycle
hire is cheap – try Damstraat, near Dam Square (Damstraat
20-22, tel: +31 20 625 5029), who do a range of cycles, with child seats if needed.
You can also book cycle tours with them if you’d like a city guide while
pedalling. The red light district is situated between the two central canals,
so you can circumnavigate these if you’d prefer the innocents to remain
that way.
It isn’t difficult to experience Amsterdam as a world away from its seedier
image of brothels, beer and bongs. The pretty canals and the tulip-draped houseboats
make for a relaxing, calming atmosphere, while the hustle and bustle of the markets
give a vibrant energy to the city. Bloemenmarkt on the Singel
(near Muntplein) is a gloriously colourful floating flower market, and the Albert
Cuyp (Albert CuypStraat) is Amsterdam’s biggest for general goodies.
Stopping to watch chocolate being made in arguably the best Dutch chocolate shop
around, Puccini (Singel 184 or Staalstraat 17, tel: +31 (0)20
626 5474), is a must. Young or old, you won’t be able to resist trying some,
and you can enjoy it with a coffee at the Staalstraat branch. If it is caffeine
you’re after, drink it with a filling Dutch pastry ('gebak’) somewhere
like Café Américain (Leidseplein 97, tel: +31 (0)20
556 3232). Mata Hari reputedly celebrated her wedding here. Avoid the coffee shops
if you’re avoiding dope, as these are the places where it’s bought
and smoked.
On
sunny warm days, take a picnic to the Vondelpark (five minutes
walk from Leidseplein) and grab some green space – or if you’re feeling
active, try renting some skates (Rent-a-Skate is at the top of
the park) and zipping around with the speed demons. Crisp days in the cooler months
still make a pleasant time for a stroll, and it’s a little quieter. Taking
a canal-bus ride might be tourist territory ten times over, but let’s face
it, kids love boats and grannies can rest. Instead of getting on a packed day
boat, see the canals when they’re lit up at night and opt for one of the
last tours at about 9pm. This is a much cheaper option than the 'evening dinner
cruises’ available and there are many embarkation stops around the city.
Canal-bus lines start in Centraal Station.
Amsterdam is an easy place to wander aimlessly and while exploring, you might
find de Poezenboot (the Cat Boat, moored on the Singel, opposite
number 40) – a must for friends of the feline. An eccentric old lady used
to collect the strays of the city here one time, and since her death it has become
a sanctuary for abandoned cats. Entrance is free, but donations are appreciated.
A mainstream family attraction in Amsterdam is NEMO, the science
and technology centre located on the dockside (Oosterdok 2, tel: +31 (0)20 531
3233). It’s worth at least a full day of interactive fiddly fingers exploration
that will keep all amused for hours – a good choice when the weather isn’t
great. You’d enjoy it here without kids, it just looks better to have them
in tow.
Instead of getting on a packed day
boat – see the canals when they are lit up at night
They house fantastic collections, but some of Amsterdam’s museums might
have younger ones twiddling their thumbs a little – not many children are
connoisseurs of Dutch Renaissance art or Van Gogh in my experience (although one
mustn’t make assumptions). The Rijksmuseum (Stadhouderskade
42, tel: +31 (0)20 674 7047, free to under-18s) does have two tremendous and intricate
doll’s houses in its collection to bring out the child in all of us –
they are apparently replicas of how people lived in the Golden Age. Not to be
missed is The Anne Frank House (Prinsengracht 267, tel: +31 (0)20
556 7105, free to under-10s), which is conserved from the sad but enlightening
period when Anne lived her last years in hiding here.
Moving and educational, the museum chronicles the story of the Jews and the
Holocaust as well as telling of Anne’s life through her famous diary.
Families can feast in Amsterdam with veritable ease – what child wouldn’t
be drooling at the fantastic range of pancakes to be found? The Pancake
Bakery (Prinsengracht 191, tel: +31 (0)20 625 1333) is well-known with
a delicious menu. Beware: at busy times the queues to get in may be long; book
ahead if you can. For Dutch food in a child-friendly environment, try Amsterdam
in the Jordaan (Watertorenplein 6, tel: +31 (0)20 682 2666, www.cradam.nl).
It’s a restaurant situated within an industrial monument – an old
pumping station.
If you’re a fan of authentic Mexican food (rather than its more commonplace
variant, 'Tex-Mex’), Rose’s Cantina is good and popular
with the locals. It can be found on Reguliersdwarsstraat 38-40 (tel: +31
(0)20 625 9797) and its Margaritas are a delectable grown-up indulgence.
The
Museumsplein is a quiet, peaceful location for staying in. A good budget choice
is Hotel Acro, near Rijksmuseum, with doubles from €70 per
night including breakfast (Jan Luijkenstraat 44, tel: +31 (0)20 675 0811, www.acro-hotel.nl).
The Stayokay Amsterdam Vondelpark hostel (Zandpad 5, tel: +31 (0)20 589 8996)
is an option if booked in advance – a family could occupy a four or eight
bed dorm for €28 each per night. The Agora Hotel (Singel
642, tel: +31 (0)20 627 2200, www.hotelagora.nl)
is pleasantly located on the canal next to the flower market. It has two family
rooms – a large triple at €153 and a quadruple at €179. Babysitting
can be arranged, but must be booked in good time.
Don’t be shy – you’ll find Amsterdam is full of fun things
to do without going near a sex museum or peep show. It won’t provide a Wally
Walrus kids club or after-dinner bingo, but it will provide a break from holiday
rep hell. While it’s true that families and cities don’t generally
mix, you needn’t fall back on the Spanish coastal resort every year. You
just need to know where to look.
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