Brussels: Capital of Art Nouveau
Brussels’ Art Nouveau legacy may not be as immediately obvious as that of Paris, perhaps, or Barcelona, with its flamboyant Gaudí confections. But it is there, threaded throughout the fabric of the city, says Bethan Ryder

Brussels has a convincing claim to the title of ‘Capital of Art Nouveau’. After all, it is home to the very first Art Nouveau (AN) buildings: the Tassel House by architect Victor Horta (1861–1947) and the house that architect Paul Hankar (1859–1901) designed and lived in, both built in 1893.

What’s more, the city’s local authorities and middle classes fully supported the brave new aesthetic, and as a result, hundreds of AN buildings were created. In fact, at the peak of AN’s popularity at the end of the 19th century, Brussels boasted around 30,000 buildings, ranging from private homes to schools, libraries, museums, shops and restaurants.

Hôtel Hannon’s swirling stairwell, complete with tempura mural
by artist Paul-Albert Baudoin

Sadly, during the last century, many masterpieces were left to ruin or destroyed, such as Horta’s ‘Maison de Peuple’, demolished in 1965. But there are more than 500 AN buildings left, and a stroll through the city will reveal plenty of hidden gems. Find them with the AN map (see box, page 35).

Alternatively, book a guided tour with ARAU (Atelier de Recherce et D’Action Urbaines, or Workshop for Urban Research and Action). This non-profit organisation, established in 1969, aims to revitalise neglected neighbourhoods and buildings. It also provides excellent multi-lingual guided tours of Brussels (on foot, or by coach), with several focussing on AN architecture. It’s a great way to see the city.

The Horta Museum
Above The stunning staircase with its decorative balustrade at the Horta Museum in the Saint-Gilles district Opposite Hôtel Hannon’s swirling stairwell, complete with tempura mural by artist Paul-Albert Baudoin

Many a dreamy hour can be spent in this exquisitely restored former house-cum-studio of the seminal Ghent-born AN architect Victor Horta. You can imagine how inspiring it must have been to live there: dinner parties amongst the gorgeous swirling forms of the brass, wood and mosaic and bas-relief friezes by Pierre Braecke in the salon; dancing up and down the staircase with its ornate balustrade, floral motif murals and wonderful glass skylight.

The stunning staircase with its decorative balustrade at the Horta Museum in the Saint-Gilles district

The son of a cobbler, Horta almost became a musician, but ended up studying architecture and drawing at Ghent’s Academie des Beaux-Arts. He worked in Paris for a couple of years and then served his apprenticeship working for the classic architect Alphonse Balat (King Leopold II’s favourite architect). Horta gained initial recognition for the private family houses he designed for individuals, such as Emile Tassel, Eugène Autrique and Ernest Solvay.

It was the Hôtel Tassel that caused the biggest stir. Its exciting new aesthetic, influenced by organic natural forms, was made possible by a pioneering use of metal (iron, steel and brass) with glass (often stained) and wood. This open, poetic architecture, characterised by flowing curves, didn’t attempt to replicate previous styles but was about embracing something entirely new. Conservative, traditional members of Brussels society disliked this new organic aesthetic; it was considered erotic and labelled the ‘work of the devil’. However, the younger generation of new Socialists, many of them middle-class professionals such as engineers and lawyers, were determined to demonstrate their modernity and became patrons of AN.

The subsequent publicity generated by these projects led to more work and enabled Horta to create a personal masterpiece in two neighbouring plots on Rue Americaine in Saint-Gilles.

Now the Horta Museum, it is a brilliant showcase of his genius. Look out for clever details such as the upright radiator that could rival any trendy contemporary design today; a closet concealing a urinal next to the bed for his own convenience; and the incredible skylight that brings light into the heart of the property. It’s a must-see. www.hortamuseum.be

Traditional members of Brussels society disliked the new aesthetic. They considered it erotic and labelled it the ‘work of the devil’

Maison Autrique
The first ever Horta house was reopened to the public last December. Maison Autrique is located at 226 Chausee de Haecht in Schaerbeek – an area that became rich in Art Nouveau architecture thanks to the forward-thinking mayor, Louis Bertrand.

The house is well worth a visit, partly to understand the huge amount of work required to recreate an authentic interior (squares of original wall are left untouched to show the restoration required), but also to enjoy its rebirth as an ‘Imaginary House’.

Tintin’s rocket stands proudly in the hall of Horta’s Waucquez store, now the Belgian Comic Cartoon Centre

The brief Eugène Autrique gave Horta wasn’t exactly challenging: ‘No luxury, no extravagance: inhabitable basement, respectable hall and staircase, drawing and dining-room smartly joined together, first floor with bathroom and toilet.’ As a result, the interior is fairly classic, but there are hints of AN that flourish later in his Tassel House.

Comic strip artists Francois Schuiten and Benoit Peeters are behind the restoration, which manages to respect heritage while incorporating modern technology (such as ghostly projections of moving inhabitants) to bring it alive for a new generation.

The duo were inspired by Horta’s ‘narrative’ architecture: “It foresees movements, creates mystery, plans surprises. Like a cartoonist, Horta structures space, directs the eye, plays on light and colour. His very approach to his projects drew on the art of fiction. A house, according to him, should not only be created ‘in the image of its occupiers’ life’, it should actually be a ‘portrait in their image’.” (Maison Autrique: Metamorphosis of an Art Nouveau House).

Saint Cyr House by Gustave Strauven in the Ixelles Ponds neighbourhood

Educational elements are present in the library in the form of drawings, photos and a film of Horta buildings, some now demolished. More than simply a homage to Horta, the aim is “to use the building as a living and moving space with a capacity for small concerts, exhibitions, forums around a writer, or an artist... to throw open another door on a fantasy world”. www.autrique.be

Belgian Comic Cartoon Centre
Cartoons are associated with another of Horta’s impressive works. The former Waucquez Store on Rue des Sables (est. 1906) was a shop until the 1960s and then left abandoned until its restoration began in the late 1980s.

It now houses the Belgian Comic Cartoon Centre, plus a small, permanent Horta exhibition.

The beautiful sgraffito façade of Paul Cauchie’s house, dating back to 1905

When clothing wholesaler Charles Waucquez commissioned Horta, he reportedly said, “I don’t want any of that Art Nouveau rubbish, I’ve only come to you because you’re famous.” Nevertheless, Horta managed to squeeze AN into the design, with curved windows comprising 50% of the façade and a Tiffany-style glass mezzanine inside giving an abundance of light.

It was thanks to one of Horta’s former pupils, Jan Breydel, that the state was persuaded to buy the building. Ads were then placed in newspapers, appealing to tradespeople who may have worked on the property to come forward. The grandchild of one craftsman was able to provide the original drawings and specifications for the unique mosaic floor now in situ.

Today, the Waucquez store houses the national archive for one of Belgium’s favourite creations – the strip cartoon – and is the second most-visited museum in Brussels. It’s also a popular party venue (the staff dress up as cartoon characters), and it even hosts weddings, with loved-up couples posing for their photos next to Tintin’s rocket.

AN buildings in the Schaerbeek district

L’Hôtel Hannon
Not far from the Horta Museum is this photography gallery, the Contretype centre, housed in a former manor house designed by Jules Brunfaut in 1903–4 for the engineer Edouard Hannon.

It was the first time Brunfaut had tried AN and he borrowed various details from Horta and Blérot in the elements of the exterior. Many artists and craftspeople were involved in creating the harmonious interior, from master glass-artisan Emile Gallé to French cabinetmaker Louis Marjorelle and artist Paul-Albert Baudoin, who was responsible for the ‘Joys of Life’ fresco decorating the stairwell.

Maison Cauchie
Artist Paul Cauchie was well practised in the sgraffito technique. Similar to fresco, it involved coating a wall in a layer of black plaster of paris, followed by a layer of white. The artist would then scratch the design into the plaster, adding colour before it dried. The façade of Cauchie’s home, built in 1905, is an advertisement for his talents, echoing the Glasgow School and Rennie Mackintosh’s style. Internal tours are the first weekend of every month and in April there’s a display of works by his wife Lina Cauchie.

Restaurant-café at the top of the Musical Instruments Museum;

MIM
Go for a coffee at the top of the wonderful Musical Instruments Museum, housed in the former Old England store, designed by architect Paul Saintenoy. The views of Brussels are amazing, but beware – it closes at 5pm and they don’t let you up after 4.30pm. www.mim.fgov.be

De Ultieme Hallucinatie
If your wallet allows, treat yourself to a drink or dinner in the former Berthold Cohn-Donnay house, now the ‘De Ultieme Hallucinatie’ brasserie. Designed by Paul Hamesse in 1904, the wonderful interior bears influences of Mackintosh and Viennese AN. A volcanic wall lends the bar a grotto feel and it’s a quite magical place. Expect to rub shoulders with Brussels’ high society. Rue Royale Sainte-Marie 316, tel: +32 (0)2 2 17 0614

There’s a host of other AN sights, museums, houses and restaurants to visit in Brussels.

‘De Ultieme Hallucinatie’ brasserie

For more ideas and information, go to www.brussels-art-nouveau.be For information on special events and tours in 2005, contact ARAU, www.arau.org, tel: +32 (0)2 219 3345. Pictures courtesy: OPT Remy

The Art Nouveau map is available from Brussels tourist offices (www.belgiquetourisme.be), Gare du Midi and the main AN buildings. A brand new €3 map will be available from early April.