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LAPPING UP THE ITALIAN LAKES
Thanks to the “Clooney Effect” the Italian lakes are awash with celebrities, Lisa Gerard-Smith reveals their individual charms from starry Lake Como to pocket-sized Iseo...

Since George Clooney bought a large stretch of waterside on Lake Como, the lakes have been bathed in Hollywood glamour. Villa Oleandra is where Clooney entertains his friends, from Brad Pitt to Julia Roberts and Madonna. The star’s recent purchase of two neighbouring villas and beach provoked a backlash, soon resolved by Clooney presenting Como with a new public beach. The waters are calm once more, even if the locals have been joined by a curious mix of film stars, fashion designers and footballers.

Madonna is a regular guest at Donatella Versace’s villa in Moltrasio, while the lake also provides the perfect camouflage for celebrity footballers from Milan and Turin, including Juventus’ Gianluca Zambrotta and AC Milan’s Clarence Seedorf. While villa-hunting in the area, Richard Gere was recently the guest of Andrei Shevchenko, the centre-forward for Berlusconi’s AC Milan.

Berlusconi himself is hunting for the perfect villa near Como, while Brad Pitt and Michael Schumacher have been spotted looking in Lenno.



The chichi resort of Bellagio sits elegantly on Lake Como
The sleepy pace of the lakes is equally seductive for non-celebrities. West of Bergamo, the three most appealing lakes are Como, Maggiore and Orta, matched by Iseo and Garda to the east. Italian lake cognoscenti consider Como the most beguiling, Maggiore the most stately, and Orta the most mystical. Pocket-sized Iseo boasts the biggest lake island in Europe while Garda is the largest, most varied lake, with eclectic villas and gardens.

Lake Como
Lago di Como has long been a favoured haunt of the European elite and, as the closest lake to Milan, is both the celebrity lake and the business capital’s playground. Blessed by a mild climate, romantic waterfront and lush vegetation, Lake Como has always been a place for illicit trysts.

It was here, according to locals, that President Kennedy romanced Marilyn Monroe. As well as dramatic scenery and pretty ports, Como is the most refined lake, a place where Victorian-style promenading is still in fashion. Out on the lake, sluggish steamers and snow-clad peaks still stir visitors, as does the mystique of Bellagio, the most prestigious resort.

Back at George Clooney’s waterfront villa, a few sporty locals have even been invited to play tennis with the laidback movie star.

Villa Oleandra is where George Clooney entertains his friends, from Brad Pitt to Julia Roberts and Madonna



Orta San Guilio on Lake Orta is an enchanting isle built up around a Benedictine retreat
Lake Orta
The peak of Monte Mottarone separates Lake Maggiore from mystical Lago d’Orta to the west. For all its popularity, Lake Orta has retained its mystique. Orta San Giulio, a medieval village set snugly on a peninsula, is a discreet resort distinguished by its chic hotels, soft light and air of spirituality. From here, friendly boatmen guide visitors to the island of San Giulio, which is built around a Benedictine retreat. A lakeside path winds round the sanctuary, with Buddhist-like signs directing visitors to “the path within”. This enchanted isle was supposedly overrun by serpents and dragons until AD 390 when Giulio, a Christian preacher, banished them and built the basilica in celebration.

Lake Maggiore
West of Lake Como, Lago Maggiore may be the most domesticated lake, but is redeemed by snow-capped views of Monte Rosa and luscious villas. Home-grown celebrities reside in their secluded retreats near Stresa: Alessi, the iconic designer, even has a villa guarded by his trademark giant coffee pot. Towards Meina, fashion designers such as Giorgio Armani and Gianfranco Ferre have equally palatial homes, only a few football pitches away from ball-hungry Alessandro del Piero.

The sedate Belle Epoque resort of Stresa overlooks the Isole Borromee, the lake’s star attractions, rocky outcrops transformed into intriguing island retreats. If Isola Bella is a showy pleasure palace, Isola Madre resembles an enchanted garden, and Isola dei Pescatori a prettified fishing village. Owned by the Borromean princes since the 15th century, this family of popes, cardinals and saints also control Angera castle and the fishing rights to the lake. Isola Bella began as a rock with a view, but is now the dynasty’s summer palace, a harmonious folly complete with mysterious grottoes and baroque art treasures. After moving on to Isola Madre, virtually a floating botanical gardens, call into Isola dei Pescatori, which could be a remote Greek island, with its fishing nets drying in the sun and courtyards of cats basking on whitewashed walls.

Lake Iseo
Just east of Bergamo, Lago d’Iseo is the antithesis of the celebrity lifestyle – apart from boasting Gualtiero Marchesi, Italy’s best-known chef. It may lack breathtaking villas but the dramatic vistas, gentle pace of life and fine food and wine are temptation enough. Unlike the Mediterranean climate of the larger lakes, Lake Iseo is alpine, with olives and horse chestnuts rather than lemon groves and palms. Iseo’s soft, smoky, vine-clad landscapes even find their way into the backdrops of Leonardo da Vinci’s paintings.

Iseo’s Franciacorta area is foodie heaven, a civilised stretch of wine estates, castles and gourmet inns. Apart from the vineyards, the lure is the forested island of Monte Isola, which lends itself to leisurely strolls and waterside lunches. The fishy trail continues at Clusane, back on the mainland, with almost as many restaurants as fishermen. Baked tench aside, Iseo is a tranquil place for exploring Cluniac monasteries and frescoed churches: the plump peasants depicted on the walls are at one with Iseo’s unpretentious air. This is the least self-consciously quaint of the great northern lakes.

Lake Garda
Further east, Lago di Garda remains a Mediterranean hot-house in northern climes, which gave the former Austrian rulers the illusion of Latin living. Some of the old charm remains in the profusion of vineyards, olive and lemon groves and palm-fringed avenues. Even if these pleasures belong to rich industrialists rather celebrities, it doesn’t make the lake any less desirable. The best way of visiting the lake is chugging around on steamers, calling in at scenic castles, gracious villas and waterside gastro-inns.

The citrus-scented resorts are all easily reached on a cruise from Limone to Riva del Garda. Limone enjoys the highest life expectancy in Europe, due to the mild climate and a cholesterol-free diet of fish and lemons. Further north, in the medieval backstreets of Riva,

The pretty colourful, Venetian waterfront of Riva del Garda is set against a dramatic backdrop of the Dolomites
Venetian palaces are framed bywaterside promenades and beaches. Out on the lake, the windsurfers’ pastel sails are whipped by the ora, a wind as regular as clockwork. Beyond are the jagged pinkish peaks of the Dolomites, creating the illusion of the Mediterranean meeting the mountains. Yet look up from your gentle cruise and you’ll see free climbers dicing with death on sheer cliff-faces. The drama is a long way from the sleepy image of the lakes. Even so, the closest you’ll come to a celebrity is seeing Paola Pezzo, a former Olympic champion, mountain-biking past. It might not match playing tennis with George Clooney, but it beats a game of ping-pong back home in Brussels.

Lake Como
Stay: Florence (Piazza Mazzini, Bellagio, tel: +39 031 950 342) is the most charming yet reasonably priced hotel in Bellagio. Family-run, it’s eclectic and funky and bursting with lake views. Villa Serbelloni (Via Roma 1, Bellagio, tel: +39 031 950 216, www.villaserbelloni.it) is the celebrity choice, overlooking the lake and designed in an ostentatious, sumptuous style.
Lunch: Silvio (Via Carcano 12, Bellagio, tel: +39 031 950 322, www.bellagiosilvio. com) is a reliable inn and fish restaurant run by generations of fishermen.


Dinner: Crotto dei Platani (Via Regina 73, Brenno, tel: +39 031 814 038) is an an elegant lakeside fish restaurant that also serves meat and game.
Shopping: Silk and cashmere are the clear winners, from scarves and ties to shawls, especially in the silk factory outlets.
Try: Seterie Ratti (Via Cernobbio 17, Como, tel: +39 031 576 000); Tessitura Mantero (Viale Roosevelt 2a, Como, tel: +39 031 321 666). Factory Store Armani (Strada Provinciale per Begamo, Vertenate con Minoprio, tel: +39 031 887 373). Distance: 35km from Bergamo airport.

Lake Maggiore
Stay: Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees, (Lungolago Umberto, Stresa, tel: +39 0323 938 938, www.borromees.it) is the patrician waterfront hotel overlooking the Borromean islands. Camin Hotel Colmegna (Via Palazzi, Luino, tel: +39 0332 510 855, www.camin-hotels.com) is a former lakeside hunting lodge converted into a boutique hotel.
Lunch: Rocca d’Angera (Angera, tel: +39 0331 931 124) is an atmospheric castle serving creative cuisine.
Dinner: Verbano (Isola dei Pescatori, tel: +39 0323 32534) is a relaxed lakeside inn on Lake Maggiore’s “fishermen’s island”, boatmen ferry you to and from your hotel on the mainland.
Distance: 100km from Bergamo airport.

Lake Orta
Stay: Villa Crespi (V G Fava, Orta San Giulio, tel: +39 0322 911 902, www. lagodortahotels.com) is a Moorish folly with atmospheric lakeside views. La Contrada dei Monti (Via dei Monti, Orta San Giulio, tel: +39 0322 905 114) is a romantic, bijou hotel in an 18th-century palazzo.
Lunch: Ristorante San Giulio (Isola San Giulio, tel: +39 0323 90234) is a traditional villa restaurant on the island, reached by a quaint ferry.
Dinner: Villa Crespi for Mediterranean dishes in a sumptuous villa setting.
Shopping: Salumeria Rovera (Lango de Gregori 15, tel: +39 0322 90123) stocks every kind of salami.
Distance: 110km from Bergamo airport.

Lake Garda
Stay: Villa Fiordaliso (Gardone Riviera, tel +39 0365 290 014) is an Art Nouveau villa that was once Mussolini’s love-nest. Du Lac et Du Parc (Riva del Garda, tel: +39 0464 551 500, www.hoteldulac-riva. it) enjoys an appealing setting, matched by lakeside gardens, a spa and water-sports. Piccolo Mondo (Torbole, near Riva, tel: +39 0464 505 271, www. hotelpiccolomondotorbole.it) is family-friendly, set in gardens with two pools, fish restaurant and spa.

Lunch: La Terrazza (Via Benaco 14, Torbole, tel: +39 0464 506 083, www. allaterrazza.com) is a good-value fish restaurant with a waterfront terrace. Dinner: Al Forte Alto (Nago, tel: +39 0464 505 566, www.alfortealto.com) serves hearty fare in an Austro-Hungarian fort overlooking Lake Garda. Al Volt (Via Fiume 73, Riva, tel: +39 0464 552 570, www.ristorantealvolt.com) is a family-run inn for traditional fare.

Information: Riva del Garda: Ingarda Trentino, tel: +39 0464 554 444, www. gardatrentino.it Distance: 70km from Bergamo airport.

Lake Iseo
Stay: Relais Mirabella (Via Mirabella, Clusane, tel: +39 030 989 8051, www. relaismirabella.it) is a boutique country hotel in the hills overlooking the lake. I Due Roccoli (Colline di Iseo, tel: +39 030 982 2977, www.idueroccoli.com) is an understated villa-hotel with a noted restaurant.
Lunch: Bellavista (Siviano, Monte Isola, tel: +39 030 988 6106) is a fine fish restaurant on the island of Monte Isola.
Dinner: Gualtiero Marchesi (Erbusco, tel: +39 030 776 0562, www.albereta.it) is home to the country’s top celebrity chef and occupies the glamorous villa-hotel of L’Albereta. Shopping: Le Cantine di Franciacorta (Via Iseo 56, Erbusco, tel: +39 030 775 1160) sells the best Franciacorta wines and foodstuffs. Salumeria Ai Portici (Piazza Garibaldi 50, Iseo, tel: +39 030 980 317) tempts with local cheeses, salami and other delicatessen delights.
Distance: 18km from Bergamo airport.

MAIN IMAGE FROM TRENTINO SPA, ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF FOTOTECA ENIT

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