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Take a Moorish voyage of discovery through Murcia’s tranquil Ricote valley says Weijer Losecaat Vermeer
There is so much more to the Spanish coast than beach and sun. Only 50 minutes by car from Murcia airport lies the secretive Valley of the Ricote. Beyond the vegetable and citrus groves of Murcia, in a mountainous region, sheltered by steep cliffs on either side, the Valley remained inaccessible to the Spanish Reconquistadores for 200 years and became the last major settlement of Moriscos, or Moorish Muslims, to be expelled.
Whether it’s an exquisite day escape from the hustle and bustle of the seaside resorts or a full holiday in the tranquillity of this ancient oasis, the Valle de Ricote offers a rewarding and refreshing experience of history, food, wine and natural beauty only 30kms from the coast.
Nothing much has changed. The Moorish irrigation system in the citrus and olive groves (huertas) still nourishes the land. The old water mills, Arab forts and palm trees (signs of former Arab presence, as palms are not indigenous to Spain and were brought by the Moriscos as signs of wealth) still dot the hillsides and rocky outcrops. The verdant River Segura snakes through the valley, bringing with it dense forests of palm trees, flowers and fruits in the middle of the arid desert hills of Jumilla and Cajitan. So much of the Moorish atmosphere and culture remains, that it feels like an Arabian oasis in the midst of Western Europe.
The steep, desert cliffs on each side managed to keep the valley hidden from the Christian invaders long enough to preserve the lifestyle of this rich culture. Even after they were discovered, more than 80% of the population remained Moorish, ensuring the preservation of the valley as a last redoubt of the spectacular Arabic civilisation in Iberia that was, at the time, the most advanced in the world. All of this lies a mere stone’s throw from Alicante and Murcia.
Taste the grilled date and bacon tapas. Drink the Jumilla wine. Soak in the minerals and natural spring waters of the Roman Spa in Archena. Oh, and there’s always the beach…
Archena
You can spy jagged peaks announcing forbidding territory in the distance from the Archena exit of the A-30 highway. The clear physical boundary, however, to the Valley of the Moriscos is the narrow bridge before the town of Archena. Due east you’ll see the rolling plains that lead to Murcia, and to the west the Segura swerves out of sight as it flows away into shaded greenery and sharply rising peeks. Only half an hour from Murcia, this moderate-sized town feels surprisingly remote, quieter, and even a little like those old Sergio Leone spaghetti westerns.
Archena is most notable for its spa, the Balneario de Archena. Dating back to pre-Roman times, this hot water spring was first converted into a famous spa by the Romans and then restored by the Spanish. It is truly a remarkable place. Today, the 19th-century buildings have lost none of their splendour. Everything, from the scent of orange blossoms, eucalyptus and pine, to the distant bird calls and gurgling water, instils restfulness. It is a place of contrasts; dry rocks against green growth, dust against the rushing water.
The Spa itself offers a great variety of amenities; three hotels (Hotel Terma, Levante and León) each cater to a different clientele, from the affordable to the luxurious and every guest has access to the Roman baths. In the centre of town a number of small clubs and bars, such as Bar El Carril, also offer excellent regional cooking.
Ulea and Villanueva del Segura From Archena, two small roads, flanking the river, lead deeper into the valley towards Ulea, which lies on a small plain, dotted with palm trees and covered in the huertas, with their raised Arabic canals and occasional farmhouse. Spot the old Moorish tower as you enter Ulea from the east, into the village that sits on one side of the valley looking across the river to face the village on the bank directly opposite: Villanueva del Segura. Both have spectacular viewing points of each other. Ulea’s Corazon de Jesus is especially worth a visit, but anywhere along the riverbank in Villanueva also has splendid views of the valley.
Further into the valley lies Ojos. Cross the bridge upon entering town and find yourself in the quiet splendour of the gardens of Paseo del Palmares. Returning to the main road, head out of town to traverse the narrowest stretch of the valley. Here the Valle de Ricote becomes a steep gorge whose ragged walls soar into the sky. The road leads past a dam and through the rock face, emerging from a tunnel to a plain and reservoir lake called Pantano de Ojos. Notice the disused Arabian water wheels and canals that run past the citrus groves under the roads forming a capillary network throughout the valleys. The lake is filled with trout and pike, so is a great place to fish, but be sure to obtain a fishing license.
Blanca
The road ribbons on towards a larger settlement called Blanca. Overlooking the town on Peña Negra, the remnants of an old Moorish fort stand guard over the beautifully preserved centre. There, you will find the Hosteria Casa Conde la Vallesa, once the former residence of the Earl of La Vallesa, it is now an elegant boutique hotel with a great restaurant. Like many in town, the hotel dates from the 19th century. To the rear of the hotel is Calle Generalisimo, where every August the controversial Running of the Bulls Festival (El Dia Del Encierro) takes place.
Walk down the street towards the main square or follow the Ruta Turistica, get lost in the peaceful backstreets of Blanca. Head to the new boulevard alongside the river and follow it westwards towards the bridge. In summer you will find children jumping into the perilously shallow rapids.
Nothing beats a Spanish cafe, of which you will find many on the boulevard and in town, like Mesón Los Murcianos or Restaurante San Roque. Order a Murcian tomato salad, grilled almonds and the Jamon Serrano all washed down with crisp, fresh local beer – Estrella Levante.
Just a 15 minute drive from Blanca is the famous wine country of Jumilla. Leaving Blanca, cross the Madrid highway into Jumilla, park up in the centre of town and walk to the Bodegas such as Bleda, Casa de la Hermita and Luzon for an oenological adventure.
Ricote
The town that gave the valley its name is not actually situated in the valley but atop the southern ridge. It is accessible via a side road leading from Blanca or Ojos. Bordering the high plains of Campo de Ricote, the town is a good base for hiking and mountain biking. There are several scenic viewpoints with views of the Valley. In Ricote, treat yourself to a meal at the Michelin-starred El Sordo restaurant, which serves exquisite Basque food.
Abaran
Back on the road from Blanca we enter the last and largest town in the Valle de Ricote. Abaran is the administrative centre of the area. Its coat of arms features a half-moon and a cross to represent the shared culture of Christendom and Islam in the valley
Abaran has the largest of the water wheels in the valley, measuring 12.8 metres in diameter. As for dining, Pericon specialises in top-end Spanish cuisine, fresh seafood and shellfish at affordable prices.
On your way back to the coast, enjoy one more meal before you rejoin the 21st century. Once inside the venta El Empalme at the Archena exit on the highway, do not order at the bar or tapas counter but ask for a table in the dining room. Many establishments have separate rooms for dining that are only advertised by a small door. Behind these lie the best in Spanish regional cooking, as is the case here. They also have award-winning wines. [25a0]
Balneario de Archena (inc. Hotel Leon, Hotel Levante, Hotel Termas)
Ctra. Del Balneario s/n. Archena (Murcia), tel: +34 968 688 022, www.balneariodearchena.com
Bar El Carril
Avenida del Carril, 6, Archena, tel: +34 968 674 142
Hotel Hosteria Casa Conde la Vallesa and Restauarante Gurea
Calle Generalisimo, 54, Blanca, tel: +34 968 775 030
Mesón Los Murcianos
Calle Juan Ramón Jiménez, 7, Blanca, tel: +34 968 459 112
Restaurant San Roque
Cruce de Blanca, Blanca, tel: +34 968 778 409
Restaurant El Sordo
Calle Alharbhona s/n Ricote, tel: +34 968 697 150
Restaurant Pericón
Calle Horno, 2 Barrio San José Artesano, Abarán, tel: +34 968 770 613, www.restaurantepericon.com
estaurante El EmpalmeR
Autovia A-30, km.375 Empalme de Archena, tel: +34 968 670 503
Vineyards Finca Luzon
tra. Jumilla-Ontur, km 17, Apto.45 Jumilla, tel: +34 968 784 135, www.fincaluzon.com
Bodegas Bleda
Avda. De Yecla, 26, Jumilla, tel: +34 968 780 012, www.bodegasbleda.com
Bodgeas y Viñedos Casa de la Ermita
Avda. De la Asunción, 42 – Bajo, Jumilla, tel: +34 968 783 035, www.casadelaermita.com
PICTURE COURTESY : VERMEER LOSECAAT WEIJER
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