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Jason Solomons reviews a dozen of the best film festivals across Europe
Hard to believe, I know, but there’s a film festival on somewhere in Europe nearly every day of the year. Many of the festivals occupy stunning locations in beautiful towns, with films unspooling beneath the starry summer nights or in grand movie palaces redolent with history. Some are held in ugly modernist convention centres, sandwiched between a gathering of dentists and property trade fairs.
Film folk gather in these places, to do their business, talk their talk and bring new talents to the fore. Intellectual critics, brash buyers, publicity-seeking politicians, famous directors and glittering stars all mingle in the bars and restaurants, bringing an unusual buzz to often quiet streets. And, contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to be in the film business to enjoy even the grandest and glitziest festival.
Cannes 17-28 May
When talking film festivals, Cannes is king. Competing for the famous Palme d’Or is the highlight of any film maker’s career. Celebrated directors such as diverse and cool as The Coen Brothers, Lars von Trier, David Cronenberg, Wong KarWai and Jean Luc Godard are regulars, choosing to premiere their latest works in the Palais des Festivals, a huge and rather ugly convention centre hulking at the end of the Croisette, the promenade that runs the length of the beautiful bay, where hotels such as The Carlton, The Martinez and The Majestic cast legendary shadows.
Cannes is probably the toughest festival to access for non-film professionals (even for us, it’s a bit of a nightmare, and it often seems the whole show is actually run by the world’s rudest security staff) but that doesn’t stop half of France descending on the little town to gawp and drink in the glamour of the nightly procession up the red-carpeted steps. You will spot stars, maybe from a distance, but often walking along the Croisette and dining on the stylish restaurant terraces, arriving on shuttle boats at hotel jetties or being interviewed for the TV stations, which set up studios along the beach for the duration of the festival.
There’s also the fantastic Cinema de la Plage, a giant screen set up on the excellent public beach, screening classics and some competition films free, every night, often with live musical accompaniment from experimental DJs or whole orchestras. Watch the films, then wander along to hear the sounds of parties wafting up from hotel beach bars. Try and gatecrash – it becomes a national pastime during Cannes and, you know, sometimes it actually works.
Nearest VE destination: Nice (30km)
Bruges 9-19 March
www.cinemanovo.be
Cinema Novo Festival (formerly the Third World Film Festival) in the charming and lively city of Bruges presents films from Africa, Asia and Latin America, often hosting European premieres of these works. Many of these films don’t receive mainstream or even art house distribution anywhere in Europe, but feature some of the most beautiful, uplifting and sensual images in world cinema. Retrospectives include the likes of Black African classics, with much discussion and fun at nearby restaurants such as Bhavani, a fine Indian, and the ever-popular Bauhaus cafe.
Nearest VE destination: Brussels (60km)
Geneva 10-18 March
www.cinema-tout-ecran.ch
The International Film Festival on Human Rights brings together a fascinating collection of directors and films, including such luminaries as Ken Loach, Ariel Dorfman, William Hurt and Ireland’s Jim Sheridan. It includes documentaries and feature films, some of which become international hits, even Oscar contenders, some of which are not allowed to be screened in the oppressive regimes of their native countries.
Brussels 10-25 March
www.fglb.org
The Brussels International Festival of Fantastic Film is not exactly glamorous but is rather scary, gathering the freaks and geeks of world film into a festival of shocks, frights and general darkness. Actually, it’s not all scary -Brussels is an impressive platform in Europe for new films from Asia, such as Ring or Dark Water, and the scene of retrospectives from horror masters such as Dario Argento or countries such as Poland. There are child-friendly screenings too.
Malaga 17-25 March
www.annecy.org
Quickly earning a reputation as a leading festival for discovering Spanish and Latin American cinema talent, Malaga has great food and a healthy record for celebrity attendance, as the Spanish film industry is small but friendly. Screenings in the Teatro Cervantes are always a lively occasion, and you are very likely to be joined by Pedro Almodovar, Javier Bardem or Penelope Cruz (though they’ll probably have better seats than you).
Rome 13-21 Oct
Europe’s newest festival starts in October this year, after the Mayor of Rome, Walter Veltroni ear-marked a budget of €7m to promote the city as a centre of film. The festival, boosted by a further €4million of private sponsorship, will be so open to the public as to even have jury composed of members of the public who will have won competitions proving their devotedness as fans. “It will be a big party in which the whole city will be dedicated to cinema,” promises Veltroni. The festival will be based in the city’s impressive new Auditiorium concert hall, but will also use 20 other historic sites as backdrop to screenings, including the Trevi fountain, where Anita Ekberg cavorted in La Dolce Vita.
Annecy 5-10 June
One of the weirdest and most experimental flick fests has to be the Annecy International Animated Film Festival, set on the edge of one of France’s most spectacular lakes, where evening screenings are sheer joy. The place is full of cutting-edge animators, cartoonists and internet whizzes. Public can reserve tickets online but also on arrival. You can also attend conferences and even learn to improve your own skills.
Nearest VE destination: Geneva (60km)
Taormina 22-29 June
www.taorminafilmfest.it
Possibly the most spectacular festival venue in the world is Taormina’s Teatro Antico, a vast Roman arena perched high on the cliffs of Sicily’s southern coast. Plastic seats fill the floor, but the better views are to be had, by taking a cushion and using the ancient stone benches which rise steeply up the banks. The sound of the nightly film screenings drift on the wind and often Mount Etna puffs smoke or even dribbles red lava in the distance. Eat at La Barca afterwards, or get an ice cream and stroll the streets.
Nearest VE destination:Catania (60km)
Marseille 2-7 July
www.fidmarseille.org
Serious but often stunning in their revelations and style, the films at the International Documentary Festival attract an intelligent crowd. Screenings are often bolstered by lectures and, this being France, occasionally demonstrations. But the debates are lively and the issues vital. The best venue is the TNM La Criee on the city’s bustling harbour front, where there are plenty of bars and some superb restaurants.
Nearest VE destination: Toulon (80km)
Thessalonika 17-26 Nov
www.filmfestival.gr
Ok so this is a little far from Athens, but specialising in films from first or second-time directors, the Thessaloniki (www.filmfestival.gr) festival has developed a reputation as the leading Balkan festival, enhanced by the participation of its locals, who pack the town’s cinemas to see the 150 films. Edgy European cinema is often the flavour of the day, and it’s a good place to spot emerging talent. The festival is also known for putting on inventive art exhibitions and concerts which complement the films. Nearest VE destination: Athens (500km)
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