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The hilltop town of Sintra has been considered sacred since time began, Bethan Ryder falls under its spell
Not far from Lisbon lies a lush hilltop region so enchanting it could be a magical kingdom sprung to life from the pages of a fairy tale.
Sintra, perched high in the Serra de Sintra mountains, is easily reachable (30km) from the Portuguese capital. Often dramatically enveloped in swirls of mist, Sintra exists in its own unique fertile micro-climate that’s milder than the surrounding areas and its been regarded as sacrosanct for centuries. Archaeologists have uncovered relics – such as the stone burial monuments of primordial cults – that suggest it was considered a spiritual place even in prehistoric times. During antiquity the region was referred to as the ‘sacred mountain’ and the Promontory of the Moon. The Moors built a castle here in the 8th or 9th century, King Dom Alfonso Henriques captured it in 1147, beginning royalty’s love affair with Sintra. Various holy orders created places of worship here, including the first Hieronymite Monastery in the 14th century.
Over the centuries, Sintra has inspired many artists and writers. In the age of
chivalry, legends told of brave knights slaying giants who lived in castles there. During the 16th century Portuguese poets were entranced by this ‘earthly garden of paradise’ and in the late 18th and early 19th century it became a place of pilgrimage for the European Romantics, who loved its dreamy, idyllic nature; Lord Bryon called it ‘glorious eden’. When the railway line to Lisbon was opened in 1887, it became the fashionable summer resort for royalty and the aristocracy, but also Lisbon’s bourgeois professionals, artists and intelligentsia.
Just a brief sojourn in Sintra will leave you mesmerised, even in the company of the many tourists who flock here throughout the year. Recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site for its rich ‘cultural landscape’, there are numerous palaces, manor houses and museums to visit – be sure to allow at least a day.
The National Palace
Arriving in Sintra’s main square you can’t miss this distinctive building with its conical twin chimneys. Once the summer residence of the monarchs and now a National Monument, it grew organically over the centuries and as a result is a hotch potch of architectural styles including Gothic, Manueline and Renaissance. Moorish influences – visible in elements such as internal courtyards, the chimneys, fountains and varying levels – date back to the 14th and 15th when King João I, an admirer of Arabic architecture, made considerable modifications to the site. Further renovations followed in the early 16th century when King Manuel I appointed masons to add fantastical, stone carved windows. The richly decorated interior includes wonderful displays of azulejos.
Praça da República, Open 10am-5.30pm, closed Wednesdays.
Pena Palace
The bright domes and towers of this glorious palace rise out from thick forest on one of Sintra’s highest peaks like a Disney castle – or a crazy cake. Its creation began in 1839 when King Fernando II de Saxe Coburg-Gotha purchased the ruins of an old 16th century monastery and decided to create a grand residence. Wilhelm
Ludwig Baron von Eschwege was given free rein as architect and the variety of architectural influences include German castles, neo-Gothic British mansions, Islamic and home-grown Manueline styles. The interiors are spectacular with frescoes, oil paintings and elaborate antique furnishings. Look out for the intricately carved plasterwork of the Indian Room and the Queen’s Chamber. Also allow time for the surrounding Pena Park, featuring waterfalls, pavilions and a chapel. Parque da Pena, Estrada da Pena. Open 10am-5.30pm, closed Mondays. Take the No. 434 bus from town.
Quinta da Regaleira
This extraordinary mansion is just a five minute walk from the main square and one of the most fascinating places in Sintra. You can spend hours exploring the landscaped gardens (often host to open-air theatre) full of grottos, secret tunnels, sculptures, waterfalls, pools with stepping stones and turrets. The unique Quinta was the vision of Dr. António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, an extremely wealthy, cultured man who bought the property in 1893. Monteiro dos Milhões (‘moneybags Monteiro’), as he was known, enlisted Italian architect and scenographer Luigi Manini to transform it into his dream residence – a ‘mansion of philosophy’ – and garden rich with symbolism. The imposing stone mansion displays a mix of architectural influences: Romantic revivalism, Neo-Manueline and Gothic. Only the ground floor remains in the original state, but it’s pretty impressive. The gardens are saturated in symbolism and imagery related to philosophical themes ranging from Christianity to alchemy, classic myths to Esotericism and the spirit of the Templars. Understanding the complex layers of meaning aren’t essential for enjoying Regaleira, exploring the grounds is a mysterious adventure and sure to bring out the amazed child in everyone.
Rua Barbosa du Bocage. Open 10am-5.30pm, closed Tuesdays.
For guided visits tel: +351 21 910 6650
Monserrate Palace
This elaborate Romantic-Oriental palace, 3k from the main square, is Portugal’s answer to the Brighton Pavilion. Built on a hill that was centuries earlier home to a Moor knight, its name originates from a 12th century chapel that once stood here and was named ‘Our Lady of Monserrate’ in 1540. Englishman Sir Francis Cook bought the property and transformed it in 1858 into this spectacular palace displaying Gothic, Arabic and Indian influences. The gardens are suitably exotic with ponds, themed Mexican and Japanese sections, lakes, waterfalls and 2500 species from across the world.
Rua Augusto dos Santos 2-4. Open 10am-3pm. For guided visits tel: +351 21 923 7300
Modern Art Museum
This palatial 1920s building, near the train station, was once a casino, but culture has replaced gambling in the form of the Berardo Collection. International art and sculpture from modern to contemporary since 1945 is exhibited here; from Salvador Dali to Dan Flavin, Francis Bacon to Marc Quinn, Claes Oldenburg to Chris Ofili. Avenida Heliodoro Salgado. Open 10am-6pm, closed Mondays. Tel: +351 21 924 8170, www.berardomodern.com
Toy Museum
Planes, trains and automobiles and even dolls; this cute museum appeals to everyone, young or old. The 20,000 different toys are the personal collection of João Arbués Moreira, curated over a 50 year period, it even includes toys that belonged to his grandparents. One for all the family.
Rua Viconde de Monserrate. Open 10am-6pm. Closed Mondays.
www.museu-do-brinquedo.pt
How to get there:
Sintra is 40mins from Lisbon by rail, trains depart from Sete Rios or Entrecampos stations, for info: www.cp.pt, www.visitportugal.com. www.portgualvirtual.com.
PICTURE COURTESY : BETHAN RYDER, PORTUGUESE TOURIST BOARD
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