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It’s not all Gucci, Prada and Vuitton on the French Riviera. Dawn Howard reveals some retail alternatives that won’t burn a hole in your pocket
Just because the bodies are bronzed and the resorts are glamorous, it doesn’t mean you need to be as wealthy as a film star to shop on the Côte d’Azur. With some insider knowledge, it is possible to find trendy togs that are more affordable than pricey designer labels.
Take Cannes, famous for its Croisette where the glitterati parade every May as part of the Film Festival. Part of this magic has rubbed off here, resulting in the ultra-luxurious boutiques that line this pretty waterside street. All the top brands are showcased here, from Rolex to Chanel, with the exquisite window displays and prices to match.
The locals love admiring these showcases and often indulge in a spot of lèche-vitrines (literally ‘lick the windows’) or window-shopping to see what’s coming up and get ahead of the game. They then keep the key trends in mind and head for less stratospherically priced clothes shops like those along the Rue d’Antibes, just one street back from the beach.
So why not follow in their footsteps? We’ve trawled the best of the rest on the Côte d’Azur, from Nice to Cassis, so that you too can emulate that trés chic Riviera look without breaking the bank…
Nice is currently midway through a tramway construction so this whole area is less charming than usual, but while this is the case make sure to visit:
Galerie du Parking du Masséna, tel +33 (0)4 93 88 18 40
This small temporary outlet shop under the Place Masséna stocks men’s and womenswear, with brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Diesel and Guess. Run don’t walk, as it’s only likely to be here for another year while the tramway is under construction. Ignore the makeshift surroundings, the shop prides itself on good reductions instead, such as Calvin Klein long-sleeved t-shirts, reduced from €70 to €39.
The other good shopping area is the Old Town, or Vieux Nice, lined with eclectic shops and beautiful belle-époque architecture. At the heart is the Cours Saleya fruit and flower market, with super displays of herbs and spices, citrus fruits and flowers. It’s open daily until lunchtime (except on Mondays, when bric-a-brac, antiques and jewellery take over).
Rue Saint Francis de Paule
Take a break in this charming café on the corner of Cours Saleya and Rue Louis Gassin. Although it belongs to the Belgian chain, it feels like an old apothecary with walls lined with jars of produce. It also has communal antique-pine refectory tables. Tartines (sandwiches) are served hot or cold on quirky flat porcelain and the café-au-lait comes in bowls. The savoury selection is excellent but save space for one of the delicious cakes too.
Rue du Marché
You’ll find a mix of French and British designs at this clothes store.
Typical garments include bold Vivienne Westwood-esque prints, with screen-printed words and pictures, fashionable one-off pieces and Galliano-esque screen-printed skirts with Che Guevara motifs for just €62. It offers a fusion of traditional handiwork on unique pieces as well as high fashion for women and children.
Rue Francis Gallo/Rue Saint Vincent
Two tiny little ‘blink and you’ll miss them’ shops – one for men and one for women – displaying clothing for those on the club scene: jeans, tops and emblazoned Lycra for the slim and trim.
7 Rue Raoul Bosio, tel: +33 (0)4 93 85 65 79
Just how a wine shop should be: stacked high with interesting bottles. This former convent school dates back to 1860. Wines include a really great red Côte de Provence, Ludovic de Beausejour, which is just slightly spicy and priced at €10. Also worth a mention is the full-bodied Bandol (just east of Marseille) with a price tag of €16. Wines are free to taste before you buy. Make sure you ask to check out the beautiful cellar. Open until 7.30pm.
St Laurent du Var (near the airport, exit 49 on the A8 motorway), tel: +33 (0)4 93 31 10 35
A mall offering stores for every budget. It’s open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 9pm. Gems to look for are: Celio for contemporary casual menswear (shirts, trousers and tops) at very good prices. La Redoute and Pimkie, favourites with young shoppers hell-bent on a bargain. Expect to pay around €24 for jeans. La Redoute also stocks men’s and children’s clothing.
Don’t be afraid to search out the season’s bargains further along the coast in the yachty town of Antibes, but when you do so head for the boutiques with smaller shopfronts.
Rue Lacan, (Same street as La Poste)
High fashion meets chic well-cut pieces. Expect to pay €115 for a super winter skirt and €55 for the matching bolero in khaki. The shop displays co-ordinating pieces together so it’s easy to create several looks with just a few well-chosen items. Closed Mondays.
63 Rue de la République, Antibes, open 10am-1.30pm, 2.30-8pm except Sunday.
Pretty jewellery created by the artist Jean-Baptiste Michel. Working in acrylic, he uses a signature cluster of circles or pebbles to form simple yet stylish pieces, in various colour combinations. Buy individual pieces, or co-ordinating sets including rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings.
For outdoor browsing don’t forget the brilliant markets up and down the Riviera. One of the most well known is at Place des Lices, St Tropez, every Tuesday and Saturday morning. They offer well-priced scarves, silk pashminas, cashmere jumpers in most colours, trendy hats, shoes and boots, panniers, olives and gourmet foods.
Prêt-a-porter, femmes et hommes Av. Guy de Maupassant, tel: +33 (0)4 93 61 55 02
This large double-fronted shop boasts Marlboro Classics, Gant and Versace among the designers, plus good-quality belts and ties. Staff are helpful and large sizes are available, which is not always the case in France.
Av. Guy de Maupassant, tel: +33 (0)4 92 91 08 98
Bright, colourful Italian fashion: smart shoes, men’s work clothes and some casual wear. It’s a hip boutique where prices are good and there is often a sale rail outside for the real bargain hunters. Open until 7.30pm daily except Sundays.
Av. Guy de Maupassant, Cheer up your feet and make them feel special with a treat from this shop.
Packed with boots, bags and belts – the three winter essentials here made from Spanish leather. The shop showcases Parisian designers. The Rhinestone cowboy boots offer just enough glitz and glamour for the Côte d’Azur. The trendy footwear starts at €60 with most items priced between €80 and €125.
12 Bd Baudoin,
If funky is your thing then look no further. You’ll find beautiful jewellery and bags, silks, highly unusual batik skirts, and beaded tunics at €38. Hats and bags in soft fabrics range from €15 to around €38.
In the town, where the four junctions meet, you’ll find Le Crystal bar which is a great place to sit and people-watch. Treat yourself to a Kir Royale with the money you’ve saved so far.
Juan les Pins also plays host to a huge outdoor sale each autumn when the shopkeepers place their wares on giant tables outside their shops called the ‘braderie’. This year it takes place from 22-24 October.
7 Rue Saint Antoine Tel +33 (0)4 93 99 18 89
This tiny shop in the charming old town of Cannes, called Le Suquet, is conveniently open from 10.30am until midnight. The fashion-conscious owner changes her stock every ten days. Think colourful, trendy and fun accessories, plus shirts ranging from €15 to €60.
And finally, the quiet fishing village of Cassis, just west of Marseille, boasts several boutiques worthy of a browse. The best of which combines a shop and market stall all rolled into one.
Rue Therese Rastit, Cassis Stocks Asian and African goods with plenty in wood or silver, from belts and bags to wooden salad tongs and jeans. You’ll find pretty clothing in delicate fabrics alongside chunky silver jewellery starting at €29. Despite its size there are plenty of treats to be found inside this shop.
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