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Chef Pierre Wynants runs the internationally renowned Brussels restaurant Comme Chez Soi with his son-in-law Lionel Rigolet. This temple of haute cuisine celebrates its 80th anniversary this year. Wynants, 67, talks to Redhot about his work and travelling with Virgin Express
Who or what inspires you in the kitchen?
First of all, my parents and grandparents. At Comme Chez Soi I have tried my best to stay true to tradition, while expanding and improving upon it and taking into account today’s preferences for lighter fare, and of course putting the utmost into the presentation of the food.
What reputation do you think Belgian cuisine has in the world today?
Belgian cuisine is renowned, but in stark contrast to France, Belgium does not do a very good job of selling itself. It’s amazing how many specialities you can find in this country of only 10 million people, but the problem is that you have three different regions that don’t work together. I will be meeting soon with a journalist to discuss putting together a publicity poster for Belgian tourist offices around the world displaying all the delicacies that Belgium has to offer, maybe with some pretty smiling young girls on it to attract attention.
Has the restaurant scene become more competitive in Belgium?
The cuisine has evolved, and going to restaurants has become very expensive, much to the detriment of haute cuisine. Lots of brasseries have opened, which are cheaper but where the service may not be as good. Still, it’s very difficult for restaurateurs, who must always keep to the highest standards.
What would you advise a young person considering entering the profession today?
First of all to attend catering school, then do two or three internships in the finest restaurants.
What are the most important qualities in a good chef?
To adhere to quality, use the finest ingredients, be conscientious and have imagination.
What do you cook at home?
Many simple dishes, like sole meuniere, roast chicken or a good cut of veal with fresh vegetables on the side.
If you couldn’t work as a chef, what would you do?
I’ve never really thought about it, but perhaps something in publishing or research, I like the idea of discovering something original.
Similar to what you do in the kitchen?
It’s very difficult to find something original and maintain the standards of good taste. There are too many restaurateurs who allow themselves to be guided by professional critics and try to do something modern, but not necessarily with the customers in mind. I think this is a mistake. You cannot just do what’s in fashion, but should remain true to traditions.
What do you like most about your job?
Everything. I enjoy being in the kitchen, discovering new wines, my contact with customers. I’m also lucky in that I get to work with family.
If you could cook for anyone in the world, who would you choose?
I’ve already had the good fortune of cooking for a lot of celebrities, but I find it is more satisfying to cook for someone celebrating a birthday, or those who normally don’t have the chance to eat in a fine restaurant.
How do you divide your time between Comme Chez Soi and Ostend Queen, the seafood restaurant on the Belgian coast where you work as a consultant?
Most Fridays I’m in Ostend, the rest of the time in Brussels. At Comme Chez Soi we’re installing a completely new kitchen this summer. When we retire we want to leave our children a tool for the future.
Are you already thinking about retirement?
Besides the restaurants, I have a number of other activities, which I can continue when the children take over Comme Chez Soi. For example, I work a lot with Belgian food retailer Delhaize and hope to write another book in three or four years.
What do you do in your spare time?
At the moment I don’t have much of it, but my interests are art (visiting museums and antique shops), football (as a spectator) and golf. I rooted for Brazil in the World Cup, but in Belgium I support Anderlecht. I have also travelled all over the world; our last big trip was earlier this year to Peru and Brazil, during the carnival in Rio de Janeiro.
Where have you flown with Virgin Express?
I’ve flown with them to Barcelona and Faro. Barcelona is one of the great cities of the world, and you find a lot of small restaurants preparing very simple dishes based on seafood and other marvellous products much cheaper than we have here. I was in Barcelona for a chefs’ convention, but I travelled to Faro purely for golf and relaxation.
Interview Renée Cordes
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